Sam and E-J's Adventure

We arrived in Nasca after a two hour pleasant ride on our now local bus 'Cruz de Sol'. We were greeted by people from the hostel we´d booked with and driven to our accommodation.

Nasca is a small and dusty town and on arriving there seemed very little to do, so we decided to go for a leisurely, long lunch, which resulted in E-J sending her steak back to the kitchen 3 times, falling into a tantrum and believing that the chef may add some "secret ingredients" not to her liking! Eventually she got what she wanted, much to the waiters apologies and relief.

In the evening we conversed with the Hostel owner, who was a charming but mad Belgium. Every other word was a swear word and despite living in Peru for 7 years he could not provide one compliment to either the country or the people! He enjoyed talking with English people and about Faulty Towers! However, after telling us that the Hostel was a shithole we decided to go to bed!

Leaving the hostel at 8, we where told that we would not be flying until 12, due to the morning overcast and the back log of flights.

At last, after a brief video about the lines history and a warning that many people experienced sickness during the flight, the time arrived and before we knew it we were inside a small, four man aircraft, with the faint smell of sick.

Once in the sky, we felt we were on a fairground ride as the plane would suddenly rise and then fall leaving our stomachs behind, but also adding an amazing adrenaline rush. The pilot would turn the plane practically upside down in order to show us the lines on the ground and simultaneously a warning, bleeping sound would be heard from the plane, due to the dramatic angle we were at. Then the pilot would turn round to us in the back, saying, 'You see the lines, yes?' to which point we would respond yes, whether we had or not, so that he would turn around and concentrate on the flying, before we spirralled to the ground!

We had imagined the lines to be massive shapes across the landscape, but in fact they were very small and you had to really concentrate to see them. Though some where more prominent than others.

Despite this, E-J thought it was amazing to see images of animals on the ground, which had been created so many years before and their purpose, still not truly known. Sam was just relieved to be back on the ground without breaking a bone in his hand, after 35 minutes of intense squeezing by E-J.

After the lines and a quick photo with the pilot, who seemed to enjoy having his arms wrapped around E-J, we headed back to the hostel. We chilled out in the afternoon, although bumping into the American, Kendal disrupted this briefly.

That evening, we decided it was about time we make the effort to go out for an evening for a few beers, but when wandering the streets of Nasca we were amazed by what a ghost town it seemed. All the restaurants and bars were empty or had just a couple of people in them. Feeling defeated and expecting the tumbleweed to blow across our paths, we decided to pop into one bar for a quick pint before we headed back. On arriving, we spotted Michelle and Dave, a couple from Newcastle, who were staying at the same hostel as us. We joined them and before we knew it we were in a full swing of conversation, about everything and anything. This continued into the early hours of the morning, with the shutters down and the door almost closed, the bar tender finally had to ask us to leave.

The next day we meet up with Dave and Michelle again and decided to do a tour together. After being to several tour agents who seemed exceptionally expensive, we were convinced we could organise it by ourselves. We all agreed to go to the Cemetrilla De Chaucilla, to see the ancient Nascan mummies. None of us however, had remembered to write down the actual spelling of the place, but felt confident that by flagging down a taxi and saying 'Cemmetria´ we would arrive at our destination.
The taxi driver seemed to understand us and pleased with our spanish skills set off for the Cemetery. It was only when we reached the local cemetery on the outskirts of Nasca, that we realised we were very wrong. The next five minutes then involved all 5 of us very confused and the driver struggling to comprehend anything we said. Sam, thinking he was the most practised at Spanish told Michelle, Dave and E-J that he would deal with this, to which point he started making the motions of wrapping something around his head at the same time as saying 'Mummariers, Mummariers!?'. The driver looked even more confused at which point we realised there was no way of communicating this to him, so instead E-J piped up with 'aquaducts?', to all our relief he understood this and headed in their direction.

On arriving at the aquaducts it was like a barren landscape and the owner, looked slightly confused to see us. With little spanish from all of us and little English from him, the tour was explained through single words and gestures.

The aquaducts were fascinating to see at first, but once you´ve seen one, you´ve seen them all. Afterwards a young girl was able to organise a taxi for us to take us to the correct cemetery.

On arriving at the Cemetrilla De Chaucilla we were able to tag onto a tour group with a very animated guide. Sam got the giggles throughout the majority of the tour and by the end of it, I don´t think any of us four were popular with the group. We all found these mummaries rather distrubing. Their bodies were so well preserved, still with their hair on their heads and partially dried skin on their bodies. It felt very voyeristic to be walking around this place looking at dead people.

After a brief breakdown of our taxi, we returned to Nasca. A quick drink and bit to eat was all we had time for before heading to our overnight bus to Arequipa.

At 10:30 pm we made our way to the bus stop to be told that it was going to be twenty mins late. Sam and Dave thought it would be a good idea to go and have a quick pint while waiting in the bar across from the bus terminal while E-J and Michelle decided to stay with the bags. The bus arrived twenty minutes later and the bags got loaded onto the bus. As people started to load on, Michelle and E-J began to panic about where the boys were as they were nowhere to be seen. With the bus practically boarded E-J quickly ran into the bar across the road and tried to find the boys, but no joy. The bus was now loaded up and so were our bags. Michelle and E-J begged the bus to wait a bit longer, but the dirver was furious as he was on his way from Lima and already behind schedule. Fifteen minutes later and still no show of the boys the girls asked if they could get the bags off the bus, but the guy at the gate said no. Distraught and worried, E-J and Michelle boarded the bus after the guy at the gate had told them that luckily there was another bus going to Arequipa in thirty minutes and he would put Sam and Dave on it when they arrived. E-J and Michelle both sat, frozen and panicking about whether the boys were ok. E-J turned her phone on in the hope that Sam might call and forty-five minutes after the departure she got the call. Relieved to know they were ok, the girls were both absolutely furious!

Sams Comments: Sitting in the bar hearing Dave say " I would like to have another beer, but I don´t want to take the mick with the girls" was a comment that rang through my ears along with E-J´s comments of disappointment for quite a few days!

E-J Comments: The airplane was quite an experience and a good way to overcome my fear of flying. I don´t think I would have enjoyed my time in Nasca as much if we hadn´t bumped into Dave and Michelle, the four of us definitely have a way of making it memorable!

Having arrived in Ica we jumped in the first taxi available and headed to the Oasis town of Huacachina. Sam chatted with the taxi driver and got his business card with the promise to ring him if we where keen on visting the local vineyards. We decided to stay in a hostal called El Huacachinero and on arriving we were very impressed! It was more like a hotel than a hostal and we felt we could finally relax. Although slightly worried when greeted by a man resembling the Williams sisters, father and tennis coach.

It was only 5 minutes later that Sam realised he had left one of his bags in the taxi. With no money and no telephone, the only choice was for Sam to get a taxi back to Ica to get money and call our previos taxi driver, Antonio. Sam got in the taxi with caution, and was slightly alarmed when an attractive, young Peruvian girl decided that she would escort him into town. The journey was started with small talk in a mixture of English and Spanish but was soon halted when the young girl realised that Sam was here with his girlfriend. Sam was worried about either being mugged or gropped! After a awkward telephone conversation with Antonio, the taxi driver, Sam and the Young girl headed back unsure whether the bag was to be returned. 50 metres before arriving back at our hostal the girl jumped out and the driver informed Sam that she was crazy!

Forty minutes later, the bag was returned with all it´s belongings inside. We could now finally relax with a beer in the darkness of the night, eager to picture the landscape around us.

The next morning we suddenly realised the enormity of the sand dunes around us!

For the rest of the day we wandered around the oasis and chilled by our hostal pool. In the afternoon we jumped aboard the sand buggies to do some sand boarding! One of us with fear, the other with excitment!

The sandboarding down the dunes was fantastic. Much to E-J´s annoynace Sam was a natural to the boarding, managing to stand up most of the way down. Though the locals also referred to him as crazy!!

E-J decided it made more sense to slide down on her tummy and frustrated by her lack of nerve made the comment 'I am turning into my mother!'. Sam constantly reminds E-J of this!

After several different sandboarding attempts down steeper dunes, we finally travelled to a point where we could watch the sun set over the dunes.

We then spent an enjoyable evening wih a Belgian couple and an entertaining Brazilian whose comments of "You drive like my grandmother" only encouraged the Sand buggy driver to drive like a mad man!

Two more days of relaxing ensured we felt refreshed and revived. Sam managed to anger the German tourists by the pool, by soaking them, whilst attempting to swim underwater, this quickly turned to laughter when Sam smacked his head against the end of the pool!!

After a disappointing early morning photo session, due to the low cloud. Mario Testino (E-J) set off on her second intensive 45 minute hike up the massive dune, determined to get the idyllic, panoramic view of the oasis. After inhaling more sand than air, hot, sweaty and exhausted she got what she wanted and watched the sun set from the crest of the dune, whilst Sam, more sensibly enjoyed a beer at the bar.

Sam's Comments: Sand boarding was great fun, however encouraging a Belgium lad to board down the massive dune, was not a great idea when he informed me that he had broken his back two years ago in a snow boarding accident!!

E-J´s Comments: I´m slightly disappointed in my weedy reaction to the sandboarding, so I have decided that at our next destination I will do something more death defying. Also, I´m slightly concerned by how unfit I am with my attempts to climb a sand dune, with a technique similar to that of a dog, god only knows how I´ll manage the inca trail!

Setting off for Guayaquil, we looked out at the fantastic scenery, as our driver swerved towards his friend in an oncoming bus much to his own amusement, but not to ours!!

Having arrived at Guayaquil we were picked up by our guest house owner, who we had stayed with previously. The evening was spent enjoying another good meal. With a twenty-four hour bus journey ahead of us, we settled down to an early night, having booked our accommodation for Lima. Sam was feeling pleased to have located a bar in Lima that would be showing the England, France World Cup Semi Final.

As we waited for the bus, we struck up conversation with a 63 year old American by the name of Kendal, who had claimed to be travelling for the last 10 years. After five mimutes of interesting conversation we were relieved to board the bus and get away from his exaggerated tales on an apparently cheaper and better experience than all others.

We took in the Ecuadorian landscape for the last time and "enjoyed" a lunch of chicken and rice followed by a smooth border crossing and then a "gourmet" supper of chicken and rice again! It was at this point that we realised we were slightly behind schedule and not enjoying the films or the hideous loos.

A distrupted sleep forced us all off the bus as we were stopped at a police check point. To E-J's delight, they decided to check her bag! On beginning to open it they decided it was more trouble than it was worth and quickly zipped it up. We now realised that the kick off for the rugby was going to be tight for time.

When "enjoying" a healthy breakfast of a chicken burger after little to no sleep, we realised we where not going to make Lima in time to watch the rugby.

Thirty hours after leaving Guayaquil we arrived into Lima, both tired, angry, desperate for a shower and a clean loo! On arriving at our hostal we were informed that our room wasn´t ready!! Once inside the room the potent aroma left by the resident kitten was not what we were expecting!! We felt this deserved a decent meal, so over indulged in two huge steaks.

The next day we quickly checked out and headed to Pisco.

Relaxing into the journey, our spirits were lifted knowing that we were not to return to Lima. However, with Sam informing E-J of the dangers that have transpired from the recent earthquake in Pisco, E-J's mood suddenly turned. We both hoped that by visiting Pisco we could help give something back to the people who had lost so much.

On travelling through the centre we were overwhelmed by the magnified devastations and distruction caused to all the buildings which resembled something similar to a war zone. Exhausted by over 50 hours of bus travel E-J's instincts sent her running into the bus terminal to extend our tickets to Ica. For the rest of the journey we sat in silence humbled by what we had seen.

Sam's comments: With horrible food, an annoying American, a troublesome stomach and missing the rugby, I have to say this trip provided me with an experience I had not prepared for and would rather forget!

E-J's comments: I guess you have to take the highs with the lows. Bring on the highs...

Having landed in Guayaquil at 3:45pm after our flight from The Galapagos, we raced to the bus terminal, determined to catch the 4.00pm bus to Cuenca - well, at least Sam was sure we had a chance of catching it. With a lot of running, dragging of bags and E-J losing her temper with the lack of communication between the guards at the bus gate and ourselves, we eventually boarded the bus and were on our way!

The journey was interesting, climbing and descending mountains, precariously missing the edge of the cliff each time we turned a bend. With our ears popping due to being 2000m above sea level we eventually arrived four hours later. After a few circles round the block from our lost taxi driver, we found our hostal. It was basic, but did the job.

On arriving we bumped into this lovely couple, called Tobias and Louise. They had also been on the same bus as us. We decided to head out together for a meal.

The next morning we headed to Cuenca's bus terminal to take another two hour bus ride up to Ingapirca to see some Inca ruins. The ruins were interesting, but not worth four hours in a bus, after a local tried to sell us a ceramic pot, we headed back. Compared to what we are hoping to see in Machu Picchu, we wouldn't really recommend it.

Cuenca is the third biggest city in Ecuador, but didn't have roads until 1964. We became very fond of it, with its slow pace of life and friendly locals. The cobblestone streets and old colonial architeture is very beautiful, which we felt looked very European.

We wandered around for the rest of the afternoon, stopping in a recommended coffee house called Cafe Austria for a decent cup of coffee. That evening, knowing that we were going to be on the road for the next couple of days we decided to return to the same restaurant called Eucalyptus. We enjoyed a couple of cocktails, vodka tonics and beers along with a great meal, all on the special deal of ladies night!

The next day after a good cup of coffee at a great Italian coffee shop called Bajo Cero we said our goodbyes to Tobias and Louise. As we sat ready to leave for Guayaquil, a legless beggar was lifted into the bus and proceeded to move about asking passangers for money.

Sam's Comments: A relaxed city, well worth seeing, however after accidentally breaking the hostal loo I knew it was time to leave!

E-J's Comments: I found Cuenca a very chilled out place. I just need to learn to keep calm and not have a trantrum, when we come across slight hiccups or confusions along the way.

Saturday finally arrived and before we knew it we were on the plane to the Galapagos. The flight was pretty smooth, only lasting 2 hours. On arriving in the Galapagos we were greeted by our tour guide, Victor, who spoke English as though he was speaking Spanish at a very fast pace and throwing in sayings, which made no sense or coming out with an answer which beared no relation to the question being asked. "Friends, it´s possible". We met up with two others from our group and were told we would have to wait for another hour for the other flight to arrive with the rest of the group. After sunburning for an hour our group finally arrived and there was a total of 12 of us. A mixture of English, Australian, Finnish and a token American who could be heard at all times.

The next part of the day was getting to our boat, which was the other side of the island, from where we had landed and this consisted of a bus ride, followed by a boat ride and then another bus ride (by a dude with an amazing handle bar moustache - much to Sam´s amusement!). We finally reached a water taxi, which took us to our boat called "Free Enterprise". The boat was an 110 foot sailing boat (although the we only motored the whole time as the sails had been removed), with 12 cabins which slept 20 people, a bar, a seating area and an eating area. With only 12 people staying on this boat, it was sheer luxury!

After dropping our bags on the boat we headed to the Darwin Plantation to see the giant Tortoises. They were truly mesmerising.

The Tortoises age ranged from 40 to 80 years old and they were incredibly docile and allowed you to get very close to them. Occasionally they would let out a sort of sighing sound, before burrowing their heads inside their shells.

We also came accross a rather extordinary turtle, known as "The Turtle´s Head":

After this we finsihed the day with a brief walk around Santa Cruz harbour, before heading back to the boat for an early night.

The next morning after traveling during the night, we started at Rabida Island. This island had the most intense landscape colours which made you feel as though you were in another world.

After a brief stroll around the island, E-J ended up in her element, surronded by Sea lions, which were so tame and allowed you to get very close to them. In particular the pups would chase you up the beach hoping that you would feed them. As tempting as it was you weren´t allowed to touch them.

We snorkelled off this beach, in the freezing water. After taking a good 10 minutes for us both to work out how to snorkel we took in the coral and raced back on board for lunch, with EJ losing circulation in her hands.

After lunch we headed to Santiago Island. Dragging EJ away from more sea lions we went for another snorkel. This time we shared the water with Giant Sea Turtles. We really felt that we were allowed into their world.

We then took another breathtaking walk, and found ourseleves surrounded by Marine Iguanas. E-J was slightly intimadated by the quantity.

Like any normal Sunday we finished off by chilling out with the sea lions!

Sam compared who had the better beard!

The evening was spent looking up at the stars listening to music enjoying a few drinks with a few of the group.

We woke in the morning to an early six o´clock start on Bartolome Island. This involved a trek up a reasonably steep dormont volcano. On this island we were also able to see small reef sharks. Much to E-J´s delight we were not allowed to snorkel with them. On the other side of the island we were able to snorkel and during this time both Sam and E-J had a shock when a sea lion bounded down the beach and decided to swim very closely underneath us!

After another three course lunch we headed to Sulivan Bay, which was an island covered in volcanic lavar as far as the eye could see. After a short walk and E-J stumbling over most of the terrain we headed to the sandy beach for our final snorkel. The idyllic setting could be like something out of a film.

During this snorkel we came across a solo penguin and an impressive array of fish.

Once on board the Free Enterprise we headed to our last destination, North Seymour Island, which was a 3 hour journey. The trip didn´t agree with E-J and she spent most of the time with another member of the group sitting at the back of the boat contemplating sickness. Whilst Sam played cards with the crew. However, we were able to experience one more highlight, which involved a sting ray doing, what looked like a circus act of somersaults out of the water!

The next day beginning again at six o´clock, we headed onto North Seymour Island to view the different birds. E-J turned into Bill Oddy for the next hour! Sam on the other hand, for the first time in his life lost interest in the birds and would have prefered an extra hour in bed!

Much to E-J´s delight, we were able to experience the mating call of the Frigate Bird, which involved the male showing off to the female. No change there then.

We were also able to see plenty of the infamous blue footed boobies and for the first time E-J can remember, Sam showed no interest in boobies!

After this walk, we boarded the boat, said our goodbyes and headed back to reality and back to the airport.

Sam´s Comments: Apart from being chased up the beach by a large, male sea lion, this place was always breath taking. Swimming with Sea Turtles with EJ by my side was a memory that will never fade.

E-J´s Comments: This is a place that will stay with us forever. We feel so honoured to have been so close to all the wild life which is so accepting of humans. My real highlights were the sea lions and at one point I did contemplate smuggling one home - Sam wasn´t too pleased by the idea as they did seem to pong! I informed him that at this point in our trip they smelt better than he did! It´s been a truly magical experience and I am so pleased we did it and shared the experience with such a lovely group in what seemed such desolate islands, due to the lack of people at this time and our guides clever planning.