Peru

We arrived in Nasca after a two-hour pleasant ride on our now, local bus 'Cruz de Sol'. People from the hostel we’d booked with greeted us and they drove us to our accommodation.

Nasca is a small and dusty town and on arriving, there seemed very little to do, so we decided to go for a leisurely, long lunch. This resulted in E-J sending her steak back to the kitchen three times, falling into a tantrum and believing that the chef may have added some "secret ingredients" not to her liking! Eventually, she got what she wanted much to the waiters apologies and relief.

In the evening we conversed with the Hostel owner, who was a charming but mad Belgium. Every other word was a swear word and despite living in Peru for seven years, he could not provide one compliment to either the country or the people! He enjoyed talking with English people and about Faulty Towers! However, after telling us that the Hostel was a shithole we decided to go to bed!

Leaving the hostel at 08:00 am, we were told that we would not be flying until 12:00 pm, due to the morning overcast and the backlog of flights.

At last, after a brief video about the lines’ history and a warning that many people experienced sickness during the flight, the time arrived and before we knew it we were inside a small, four man aircraft with the faint smell of sick.

Once in the sky, we felt we were on a fairground ride as the plane would suddenly rise and then fall leaving our stomachs behind, but also adding an amazing adrenaline rush. The pilot would turn the plane practically upside down in order to show us the lines on the ground and simultaneously a warning, bleeping sound would be heard from the plane, due to the dramatic angle we were flying at. Then the pilot would turn round to us in the back, saying, 'You see the lines, yes?' to which point we would respond yes, whether we had or not, so that he would turn around and concentrate on the flying, before we spiraled to the ground!

We had imagined the lines to be massive shapes across the landscape, but in fact they were very small and you had to really concentrate to see them. Some were more prominent than others.

Despite the faint and smallness of the lines, E-J thought it was amazing to see images of animals on the ground, which had been created so many years before and their purpose still not truly known. Sam was just relieved to be back on the ground without breaking a bone in his hand, after thirty-five minutes of intense squeezing by E-J!

After the lines and a quick photo with the pilot, who seemed to enjoy having his arms wrapped around E-J, we headed back to the hostel. We chilled out in the afternoon, although this was briefly disrupted when we bumped into the American, Kendal (from the Guayaquil to Lima bus)

That evening, we decided it was about time we make the effort to go out for an evening and for a few beers, but when wandering the streets of Nasca we were amazed by what a ghost town it seemed. All the restaurants and bars were empty or had just a couple of people in them. Feeling defeated and expecting the tumbleweed to blow across our paths, we decided to pop into one bar for a quick pint before we headed back. On arriving, we spotted Michelle and Dave, a couple from Newcastle, who were staying at the same hostel as us. We joined them and before we knew it we were in a full swing of conversation about everything and anything. This continued into the early hours of the morning, with the shutters down and the door almost closed, the bar tender finally had to ask us to leave.

The next day we meet up with Dave and Michelle again and decided to do a tour together. After being to several tour agents who seemed exceptionally expensive, we were convinced we could organise it by ourselves. We all agreed to go to the Cementerio de Chauchilla, to see the ancient Nascan mummies. None of us however, had remembered to write down the actual spelling of the place, but feeling confident that by flagging down a taxi and saying 'Cemmetria´ we would arrive at our destination. The taxi driver seemed to understand us and pleased with our Spanish skills set off for the Cemetery. It was only when we reached the local cemetery on the outskirts of Nasca, that we realised we were very wrong. The next five minutes involved all five of us becoming very confused and the driver struggling to comprehend anything we said. Sam, thinking he was the most practiced at Spanish told Michelle, Dave and E-J that he would deal with this, to which point he started making the motions of wrapping something around his head at the same time as saying 'Mummariers, Mummariers!?'. The driver looked even more confused at which point we realised there was no way of communicating this to him, so instead E-J piped up with 'aqueducts?’ To everyone’s relief he understood this and headed in the direction of the aqueducts.

On arriving at the aqueducts it was like a barren landscape and the owner, looked slightly confused to see us. With little Spanish from all of us and little English from him, the tour was explained through single words and gestures.

The aqueducts were fascinating to see at first, but once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. Afterwards a young girl was able to organise a taxi for us to take us to the correct cemetery.

On arriving at the Cementerio de Chauchilla, we were able to tag onto a tour group with a very animated guide. Sam got the giggles throughout the majority of the tour and by the end of it, I don’t think any of us four were popular with the group. We all found these mummeries rather disturbing. Their bodies were so well preserved, still with their hair on their heads and partially dried skin on their bodies. It felt very voyeuristic to be walking around this place looking at dead people.

After a brief breakdown of our taxi, we returned to Nasca. A quick drink and a bite to eat was all we had time for before heading to our overnight bus to Arequipa.

At 10:30 pm we made our way to the bus stop to be told that it was going to be twenty minutes late. Sam and Dave thought it would be a good idea to go and have a quick pint while waiting in the bar across from the bus terminal while E-J and Michelle decided to stay with the bags. The bus arrived twenty minutes later and the bags got loaded onto the bus. As people started to load on, Michelle and E-J began to panic about where the boys were as they were nowhere to be seen. With the bus practically boarded E-J quickly ran into the bar across the road and tried to find the boys, but to no joy. The bus was now loaded up and so were our bags. Michelle and E-J begged the bus to wait a bit longer, but the driver was furious as he was on his way from Lima and already behind schedule. Fifteen minutes later and still no show of the boys, the girls asked if they could get the bags off the bus, but the guy at the gate said no. Distraught and worried, E-J and Michelle boarded the bus after the guy at the gate had told them that luckily there was another bus going to Arequipa in thirty minutes and he would put Sam and Dave on it when they arrived. E-J and Michelle both sat, frozen and panicking about whether the boys were ok. E-J turned her phone on in the hope that Sam might call and forty-five minutes after the departure she got the call. Relieved to know they were ok, the girls were both absolutely furious!

Sams Comments: Sitting in the bar hearing Dave say " I would like to have another beer, but I don’t want to take the mick with the girls" was a comment that rang through my ears along with E-J’s comments of disappointment for quite a few days!

E-J Comments: The airplane was quite an experience and a good way to overcome my fear of flying. I don’t think I would have enjoyed my time in Nasca as much if we hadn’t bumped into Dave and Michelle, the four of us definitely have a way of making it memorable!

Having arrived in Ica we jumped in the first taxi available and headed to the Oasis town of Huacachina. Sam chatted with the taxi driver and got his business card with the promise to ring him if we were keen on visiting the local vineyards. We decided to stay in a hostel called El Huacachinero and on arrival we were very impressed! It was more like a hotel than a hostel and we felt we could finally relax. Sam was slightly concerned that the man greeting us at the reception desk had an uncanny resemblance to the Williams sisters, father and tennis coach.

It was only five minutes later that Sam realised he had left one of his bags in the taxi. With no money and no telephone, the only choice was for Sam to get a taxi back to Ica to get money and call our previous taxi driver, Antonio. Sam got in the taxi with caution, and was slightly alarmed when an attractive, young Peruvian girl decided that she would escort him into town. The journey was started with small talk in a mixture of English and Spanish, but soon was halted when the young girl realised that Sam was here with his girlfriend. Sam was worried about either being mugged or groped! After a awkward telephone conversation with Antonio, the taxi driver, Sam and the young girl headed back to the hostel, unsure whether the bag was to be returned. 50 metres before arriving back at our hostel the girl jumped out and the driver informed Sam that she was crazy!

Forty minutes later, the bag was returned with all its belongings inside. We could now finally relax with a beer in the darkness of the night, eager to picture the landscape around us.

The next morning we suddenly realised the enormity of the sand dunes around us!

For the rest of the day we wandered around the oasis and chilled by our hostel pool. In the afternoon we jumped aboard the sand buggies to do some sand boarding - one of us with fear, the other with excitement!

The sand boarding down the dunes was fantastic. Much to E-J’s annoyance Sam was a natural to the boarding, managing to stand up most of the way down. The locals also referred to him as crazy!!

E-J decided it made more sense to slide down on her tummy and frustrated by her lack of nerve made the comment 'I am turning into my mother!' Sam constantly reminds E-J of this!

After several different sand boarding attempts down steeper dunes, we finally travelled to a point where we could watch the sun set over the dunes.

We then spent an enjoyable evening with a Belgian couple and an entertaining Brazilian whose comments of "You drive like my grandmother" only encouraged the Sand buggy driver to drive like a mad man!

Two more days of relaxing ensured we felt refreshed and revived. Sam managed to anger the German tourists by the pool, by soaking them, whilst attempting to swim underwater, this then quickly turned into laughter when Sam smacked his head against the end of the pool!!

After a disappointing early morning photo session due to the low cloud, Mario Testino (E-J) set off on her second intensive forty-five minute hike up the massive dune, determined to get the idyllic, panoramic view of the oasis. After inhaling more sand than air, hot, sweaty and exhausted, she got what she wanted and watched the sun set from the crest of the dune, whilst Sam more sensibly enjoyed a beer by the bar.

Sam's Comments: Sand boarding was great fun, however encouraging a Belgium lad to board down the massive dune, was not a great idea when he informed me that he had broken his back two years ago in a snow boarding accident!!

E-J’s Comments: I’m slightly disappointed in my weedy reaction to the sand boarding, so I have decided that at our next destination I will do something more death defying. Also, I’m slightly concerned by how unfit I am with my attempts to climb a sand dune, with a technique similar to that of a dog, god only knows how I’ll manage the Inca trail!

Setting off for Guayaquil, we looked out at the fantastic scenery, as our driver jokingly swerved towards his friend in an oncoming bus much to his own amusement, but not to ours!!

Having arrived at Guayaquil we were picked up by our guesthouse owner, who we had stayed with previously and the evening was spent enjoying another good meal. With a twenty-four hour bus journey ahead of us, we settled down to an early night, having booked our accommodation for Lima. Sam was feeling pleased to have located a bar in Lima that would be showing the England, France World Cup Semi Final.

As we waited for the bus, we struck up a conversation with a 63 year old American by the name of Kendal, who claimed to be travelling for the last 10 years. After five minutes of interesting conversation we were relieved to board the bus and get away from his exaggerated tales on an apparently cheaper and better experience than all others.

We took in the Ecuadorian landscape for the last time and "enjoyed" a lunch of chicken and rice followed by a smooth border crossing and then a "gourmet" supper of chicken and rice again! It was at this point that we realised we were slightly behind schedule and not enjoying the films or the hideous loos.

A disrupted sleep forced us all off the bus as we were stopped at a police check point. To E-J's delight, they decided to check her bag! On beginning to open it they decided it was more trouble than it was worth and quickly zipped it back up. We now realised that the kick off for the rugby was going to be tight for time.

"Enjoying" a healthy breakfast of a chicken burger after little to no sleep, we realised we were not going to make Lima in time to watch the rugby.

Thirty hours after leaving Guayaquil we arrived into Lima, both tired, angry, desperate for a shower and a clean loo! On arriving at our hostel we were informed that our room wasn’t ready!! Once inside the room the potent aroma left by the resident kitten was not what we were expecting!! We felt this deserved a decent meal, so over indulged in two huge steaks.

The next day we quickly checked out and headed to Pisco.

Relaxing into the journey, our spirits were lifted knowing that we were not to return to Lima. However, with Sam informing E-J of the dangers that have transpired from the recent earthquake in Pisco, E-J's mood suddenly turned. We both hoped that by visiting Pisco we could help give something back to the people who had lost so much.

On travelling through the centre we were overwhelmed by the magnified devastations and destruction caused to all the buildings, which resembled something similar to a war zone. Exhausted by over 50 hours of bus travel E-J's instincts sent her running into the bus terminal to extend our tickets to Ica. For the rest of the journey we sat in silence humbled by what we had seen.

Sam's comments: With horrible food, an annoying American, a troublesome stomach and missing the rugby, I have to say this trip provided me with an experience I had not prepared for and would rather forget!

E-J's comments: I guess you have to take the highs with the lows. Bring on the highs...

Having landed on our feet in Mancora, our hosts kindly looked after us with good food and some interesting conversations in a mixute of basic Spanish and English. We explored the beach, which went on for miles and miles and after two hours of walking we decided to turn back.

Our 4 days were like paradise, waking and falling asleep to the sounds of the sea, with a beautiful view every morning.

As a typical Brit abroad Sam got sun burnt.

Disaster struck when we lost one of the dice which brought a halt to our back gammon rivalry. This was down to Sam´s competitive throwing!!

We enjoyed all of the facilities provided in our accommodation, some of us enjoyed the pool more than others!!

Modes of transport here were interesting with the local taxis drivers taking to the roads like Lewis Hamilton. However the speed was slightly restricted with it being a three wheeled motorbike!

Although some drivers attempted the impossible pelting over the bumpy sandy tracks! one of us struggled to enjoy this.

The last night was spent eating a great meal with our hosts and enjoying a few beers and as the sun set we saw
whales swimming in the sea. A terrific experiance with great people, definitely a place we would recommend.

After saying goodbye to the hosts, we boarded a taxi with the drivers 3 children on their way to school, one on E-J´s lap, and the other two squashed between us!!

Sam Comments: Although our host thought I looked like the Chealsea striker Pizzaro, I had great fun. EJ in her bikinni in front of the local builders certainly provided them with a highlight!! Delighted to buy another pair of shorts, however lost the string for them within half an hour!!

E-J´s Comments: The four days were a perfect time to chill out and get a base tan before we headed up to Ecuador. The beach was idyllic. We really loved the people as they were all so friendly and layed back. There was only one moment when I felt we almost faced a near death experience as a night time taxi driver pelted down the dusty lanes almost causing me to fly out as we hit a pot hole - still, I´m learning to live with the more care free attitude to life...

Having arrived at Lima at 6.30 pm after a grueling 36 hours without sleep, highlights of the Plane journey included getting slightly lost in Madrid Airport when we were trying to find our gate and Sam spilling wine all over EJ, so she smelt lovely for the rest of the trip!!

Having arrived at our 4 Star hotel in Miraflores, which was far from backpacking.

We met up with Nacho and Melissa who live in Lima. They kindly took us out and in true backpacker fashion we went for Sushi! We discussed our plans and they both provided us with some great tips. So we took them up on the idea of heading for Mancora on the way up to Ecuador.

The next day, after spending 3 hours trying to get money out of the bank, we headed into Central Lima. We both became very aware of ourselves as literally everyone stared at us. This slightly unnerved us. .

You can see by Sam’s expression, what his thoughts were...

We walked from Plaza De Armas to Plaza San Martin and noticed that there were lots of young couples passionately embracing around the statues. Hence we renamed it ´Snoggers Square´.

After a brief experience of Central Lima, we decided it wasn’t the place for us and headed back to Miraflores. We walked to the beach and were pleased to meet some surfers who actually asked us whether we were Spanish - we were very proud, as for up to then, despite our efforts of trying to speak in Spanish, everyone seemed to reply to us in English.

The next day we checked out of the hotel sad to leave the luxuries of life and headed to the nearest coffee house to wait before we got our bus to Mancora. We found Starbucks of all places! It was very surreal to be sitting in a Starbucks with the same lay out as every other damn one.

Once aboard the 17-hour bus journey EJ settled in to watching film after film after film in Spanish!! Her particular favourite was a "boys in the hood" meets American football film!

On our first break we where treated to a game of Spanish Bingo. Sam thought he would have won but did not understand any of the Spanish numbers!! EJ realised there was room for improvement with Spanish. After a quick inspection by the Peruvian Police accompanied by sniffer dogs, we stopped again at 3:00 am. Sam went for a pee and nearly missed the bus!!

During the journey it dawned on us both that having had the comfort of a 4 star hotel for the first 2 nights we had to start realising that accommodation was not going to be so grand and we would have to start slumming it.

We arrived in Mancora at 8:00 am and where guided by a local taxi to a recommended hostel!! At $10 dollars a night we decided to stay for 3 nights.

The 6 bed 2 bathroom, Jacuzzi and bedroom sea views for just us, seemed quite reasonable...

Mancora is known for its constant sunshine, surf and great seafood, we are loving this place!!

SAM COMMENTS
Have realised that my Spanish needs some work, EJ´s pigeon Spanish is coming on - I know rabbit Spanish, as I am like a rabbit in the headlights during any conversation. Also note to self always pack more than one pair of shorts!!

EJ COMMENTS
The Peruvians seem really friendly. I had some teenage boys in hysterics after they called out to me in English and I replied in Spanish. Then on the beach 4 little girls around the ages of 8 - 10 hovered around me for a while and when gathering enough courage asked if they could take a picture of themselves with me, once they taken a few, they ran off giggling. I then realised I was the only blonde on the beach - not sure whether to be flattered or to be thought as a freak show...