Sam and E-J's Adventure

Having arrived in Ica we jumped in the first taxi available and headed to the Oasis town of Huacachina. Sam chatted with the taxi driver and got his business card with the promise to ring him if we were keen on visiting the local vineyards. We decided to stay in a hostel called El Huacachinero and on arrival we were very impressed! It was more like a hotel than a hostel and we felt we could finally relax. Sam was slightly concerned that the man greeting us at the reception desk had an uncanny resemblance to the Williams sisters, father and tennis coach.

It was only five minutes later that Sam realised he had left one of his bags in the taxi. With no money and no telephone, the only choice was for Sam to get a taxi back to Ica to get money and call our previous taxi driver, Antonio. Sam got in the taxi with caution, and was slightly alarmed when an attractive, young Peruvian girl decided that she would escort him into town. The journey was started with small talk in a mixture of English and Spanish, but soon was halted when the young girl realised that Sam was here with his girlfriend. Sam was worried about either being mugged or groped! After a awkward telephone conversation with Antonio, the taxi driver, Sam and the young girl headed back to the hostel, unsure whether the bag was to be returned. 50 metres before arriving back at our hostel the girl jumped out and the driver informed Sam that she was crazy!

Forty minutes later, the bag was returned with all its belongings inside. We could now finally relax with a beer in the darkness of the night, eager to picture the landscape around us.

The next morning we suddenly realised the enormity of the sand dunes around us!

For the rest of the day we wandered around the oasis and chilled by our hostel pool. In the afternoon we jumped aboard the sand buggies to do some sand boarding - one of us with fear, the other with excitement!

The sand boarding down the dunes was fantastic. Much to E-J’s annoyance Sam was a natural to the boarding, managing to stand up most of the way down. The locals also referred to him as crazy!!

E-J decided it made more sense to slide down on her tummy and frustrated by her lack of nerve made the comment 'I am turning into my mother!' Sam constantly reminds E-J of this!

After several different sand boarding attempts down steeper dunes, we finally travelled to a point where we could watch the sun set over the dunes.

We then spent an enjoyable evening with a Belgian couple and an entertaining Brazilian whose comments of "You drive like my grandmother" only encouraged the Sand buggy driver to drive like a mad man!

Two more days of relaxing ensured we felt refreshed and revived. Sam managed to anger the German tourists by the pool, by soaking them, whilst attempting to swim underwater, this then quickly turned into laughter when Sam smacked his head against the end of the pool!!

After a disappointing early morning photo session due to the low cloud, Mario Testino (E-J) set off on her second intensive forty-five minute hike up the massive dune, determined to get the idyllic, panoramic view of the oasis. After inhaling more sand than air, hot, sweaty and exhausted, she got what she wanted and watched the sun set from the crest of the dune, whilst Sam more sensibly enjoyed a beer by the bar.

Sam's Comments: Sand boarding was great fun, however encouraging a Belgium lad to board down the massive dune, was not a great idea when he informed me that he had broken his back two years ago in a snow boarding accident!!

E-J’s Comments: I’m slightly disappointed in my weedy reaction to the sand boarding, so I have decided that at our next destination I will do something more death defying. Also, I’m slightly concerned by how unfit I am with my attempts to climb a sand dune, with a technique similar to that of a dog, god only knows how I’ll manage the Inca trail!

Setting off for Guayaquil, we looked out at the fantastic scenery, as our driver jokingly swerved towards his friend in an oncoming bus much to his own amusement, but not to ours!!

Having arrived at Guayaquil we were picked up by our guesthouse owner, who we had stayed with previously and the evening was spent enjoying another good meal. With a twenty-four hour bus journey ahead of us, we settled down to an early night, having booked our accommodation for Lima. Sam was feeling pleased to have located a bar in Lima that would be showing the England, France World Cup Semi Final.

As we waited for the bus, we struck up a conversation with a 63 year old American by the name of Kendal, who claimed to be travelling for the last 10 years. After five minutes of interesting conversation we were relieved to board the bus and get away from his exaggerated tales on an apparently cheaper and better experience than all others.

We took in the Ecuadorian landscape for the last time and "enjoyed" a lunch of chicken and rice followed by a smooth border crossing and then a "gourmet" supper of chicken and rice again! It was at this point that we realised we were slightly behind schedule and not enjoying the films or the hideous loos.

A disrupted sleep forced us all off the bus as we were stopped at a police check point. To E-J's delight, they decided to check her bag! On beginning to open it they decided it was more trouble than it was worth and quickly zipped it back up. We now realised that the kick off for the rugby was going to be tight for time.

"Enjoying" a healthy breakfast of a chicken burger after little to no sleep, we realised we were not going to make Lima in time to watch the rugby.

Thirty hours after leaving Guayaquil we arrived into Lima, both tired, angry, desperate for a shower and a clean loo! On arriving at our hostel we were informed that our room wasn’t ready!! Once inside the room the potent aroma left by the resident kitten was not what we were expecting!! We felt this deserved a decent meal, so over indulged in two huge steaks.

The next day we quickly checked out and headed to Pisco.

Relaxing into the journey, our spirits were lifted knowing that we were not to return to Lima. However, with Sam informing E-J of the dangers that have transpired from the recent earthquake in Pisco, E-J's mood suddenly turned. We both hoped that by visiting Pisco we could help give something back to the people who had lost so much.

On travelling through the centre we were overwhelmed by the magnified devastations and destruction caused to all the buildings, which resembled something similar to a war zone. Exhausted by over 50 hours of bus travel E-J's instincts sent her running into the bus terminal to extend our tickets to Ica. For the rest of the journey we sat in silence humbled by what we had seen.

Sam's comments: With horrible food, an annoying American, a troublesome stomach and missing the rugby, I have to say this trip provided me with an experience I had not prepared for and would rather forget!

E-J's comments: I guess you have to take the highs with the lows. Bring on the highs...

Having landed in Guayaquil at 3:45pm from our flight from The Galapagos, we raced to the bus terminal, determined to catch the 4.00pm bus to Cuenca - well, at least Sam was sure we had a chance of catching it. With a lot of running, dragging of bags and E-J losing her temper with the lack of communication between the guards at the bus gate and us, we eventually boarded the bus and were on our way!

The journey was interesting, climbing and descending mountains, precariously missing the edge of the cliff each time we turned a bend. With our ears popping due to being 2000 metres above sea level we eventually arrived four hours later. After a few circles round the block from our lost taxi driver, we found our hostel. It was basic, but did the job.

On arriving we bumped into this lovely couple, called Tobias and Louise. They had also been on the same bus as us. We decided to head out together for a meal.

The next morning we headed to Cuenca's bus terminal to take another two-hour bus ride up to Ingapirca to see some Inca ruins. The ruins were interesting, but not worth four hours in a bus.

After a local tried to sell us a ceramic pot, we headed back. Compared to what we are hoping to see in Machu Picchu, we wouldn't really recommend it.

Cuenca is the third biggest city in Ecuador, but didn't have roads until 1964. We became very fond of it, with its slow pace of life and friendly locals. The cobblestone streets and old colonial architecture is very beautiful and we felt it looked very European.

We wandered around for the rest of the afternoon, stopping in a recommended coffee house called Cafe Austria for a decent cup of coffee. That evening, knowing that we were going to be on the road for the next couple of days we decided to return to the same restaurant called Eucalyptus. We enjoyed a couple of cocktails, vodka tonics and beers along with a great meal, all on the special deal of ladies night!

The next day after a good cup of coffee at a great Italian coffee shop called Bajo Cero we said our goodbyes to Tobias and Louise. As we sat ready to leave for Guayaquil, a legless beggar was lifted into the bus and preceded to move about asking passengers for money.

Sam's Comments: A relaxed city, well worth seeing; however after accidentally breaking the hostel loo I knew it was time to leave!

E-J's Comments: I found Cuenca a very chilled out place. I just need to learn to keep calm and not have a tantrum, when we come across slight hiccups or confusions along the way.

Saturday finally arrived and before we knew it, we were on the plane to the Galapagos. The flight was pretty smooth, lasting only two hours. On arriving in the Galapagos we were greeted by our tour guide, Victor, who spoke English as though he was speaking Spanish at a very fast pace and throwing in sayings, which made no sense or coming out with an answer which bared no relation to the question being asked. "Friends, it’s possible". We met up with two others from our group and were told we would have to wait for another hour for the other flight to arrive with the rest of the group. After sun burning for an hour, our group finally arrived and there was a total of twelve of us - A mixture of English, Australian, Finnish and a token American who could be heard at all times.

The next part of the day was getting to our boat, which was the other side of the island from where we had landed and this consisted of a bus ride, followed by a boat ride and then another bus ride (by a dude with an amazing handle bar moustache - much to Sam’s amusement!). We finally reached a water taxi, which took us to our boat called "Free Enterprise". The boat was an one hundred and ten foot sailing boat (although we only motored the whole time, as the sails had been removed), with twelve cabins, which slept twenty people, a bar, a seating area and an eating area. With only twelve people staying on this boat, it was sheer luxury!

After dropping our bags on the boat, we headed to the Darwin Plantation to see the giant Tortoises, they were truly mesmerising.

The Tortoises’ age ranged from 40 to 80 years old and they were incredibly docile and allowed you to get very close to them. Occasionally they would let out a sort of sighing sound, before burrowing their heads inside their shells.

We also came across a rather extraordinary turtle, known as "The Turtle’s Head":

After this, we finished the day with a brief walk around Santa Cruz Harbour, before heading back to the boat for an early night.

The next morning, after traveling during the night, we started at Rabida Island. This island had the most intense landscape colours, which made you feel as though you were in another world.

After a brief stroll around the island, E-J ended up in her element, surrounded by Sea lions, which were so tame and allowed you to get very close to them. In particular the pups would chase you up the beach hoping that you would feed them. As tempting as it was, you weren’t allowed to touch them.

We snorkeled off this beach, in the freezing water. After taking a good ten minutes for us both to work out how to snorkel, we took in the coral and raced back on board for lunch, after E-J lost circulation in both her hands.

After lunch we headed to Santiago Island. Having dragged E-J away from more sea lions, we went for another snorkel. This time we shared the water with Giant Sea Turtles. We really felt humbled that we were allowed into their world.

We then took another breathtaking walk, and found ourselves surrounded by Marine Iguanas. E-J was slightly intimidated by the quantity.

Like any normal Sunday we finished off by chilling out with the sea lions!

Sam compared who had the better beard!

The evening was spent looking up at the stars listening to music enjoying a few drinks with a few of the group.

The next day, we woke in the morning to an early six o’clock start on Bartolome Island. This involved a trek up a reasonably steep dormant volcano. On this island we were also able to see small reef sharks. Much to E-J’s delight we were not allowed to snorkel with them. On the other side of the island we were able to snorkel and during this time both Sam and E-J had a shock when a sea lion bounded down the beach and decided to swim very closely underneath them!

After another three-course lunch we headed to Sullivan Bay, which was an island covered in volcanic lava as far as the eye could see. After a short walk and E-J stumbling over most of the terrain, we headed to the sandy beach for our final snorkel. The idyllic setting could be like something out of a film.

During this snorkel we came across a solo penguin and an impressive array of fish.

Once on board the Free Enterprise we headed to our last destination, North Seymour Island, which was a three-hour journey. The trip didn’t agree with E-J and she spent most of the time with another member of the group sitting at the back of the boat contemplating sickness, meanwhile, Sam played cards with the crew.

We were able to experience one more highlight during the journey, which involved a stingray doing, what looked like a circus act of somersaults out of the water!

The next day beginning again at six o’clock, we headed onto North Seymour Island to view the different birds. E-J turned into Bill Oddy for the next hour! Sam on the other hand, for the first time in his life lost interest in the birds and would have preferred an extra hour in bed!

Much to E-J’s delight, we were able to experience the mating call of the Frigate Bird, which involved the male showing off to the female. No change there then.

We were also able to see plenty of the infamous blue-footed boobies and for the first time E-J can remember, Sam showed no interest in boobies!

After this walk, we boarded the boat, said our goodbyes and headed back to reality and back to the airport.

Sam´s Comments: Apart from being chased up the beach by a large, male sea lion, this place was always breathtaking. Swimming with Sea Turtles with E-J by my side was a memory that will never fade.

E-J´s Comments: This is a place that will stay with us forever. We feel so honoured to have been so close to all the wildlife, which is so accepting of humans. My real highlights were the sea lions and at one point I did contemplate smuggling one home - Sam wasn’t too pleased by this idea, as they did seem to pong! I informed him that at this point in our trip they smelt better than he did! It’s been a truly magical experience and I am so pleased we did it and shared the experience with such a lovely group in what seemed such desolate islands, due to the lack of people at this time and our guides clever planning.

Scheduled to set off on the eight o’clock bus for Guayaquil produced an early panic!! E-J was nervously worried, as the bus was 40 minutes late!! The words “calm down” were used excessively!! On our way E-J settled down into the terrible films on board the bus.

The border crossing into Ecuador caused another slight anxiety attack from E-J when she was concerned that we were the only two people without the relevant papers, needless to say we were handed the correct documents at the official check point, which was a good Kilometre from the Peruvian border!!

As we travelled up to Ecuador we noticed the change in the terrain from dusty, dry landscapes to lush, green fields and an abundance of Banana tree fields!

After a nine-hour journey we arrived in Ecuador’s biggest city Guayaquil as the light was fading. It dawned on Sam that it might have been an error not to book our accommodation in advance. E-J, after getting used to the Mancora vibe thought it would be ok. With an address of a guesthouse we set off with a local taxi driver believing that we were almost at our destination, sadly we were wrong! Firstly, the taxi driver didn’t even know where he was going and asked us to direct him! Secondly, on finally finding it we were confronted by a security guard at the gates. With no password and no reservation, the guard finally allowed us to call the guesthouse and in E-J´s limited Spanish, she asked if there was any room for two nights. Unable to understand the response, she finally said ‘Soy Inglesa’ to which the guesthouse host, responded with ‘it’s ok, It’s ok, you can come’. Relieved, we headed to the house located in the suburbs of Guayaquil.

A lovely girl called Andrea ran the Guesthouse; she was only 25 years old but seemed to have already done so much in her life. She lived with her father and staying there was like staying in a friendly, family, country home. E-J enjoyed chatting with Andrea, listening to all her stories and recommendations of places to go. In particular, she suggested that we should go to Cuenca to see what the traditional Ecuadorian architecture and the people were like. Andrea also helped us with lots of information, from buses, to ideas of what to do in Quayaquil and our Galapagos trip.

The next day was all about booking the Galapagos trip. The trip into town on the local buses took us an hour, however the first trip was double that time, due to a few mistakes!! After that, we mastered it and felt like proper travellers commuting with the locals. The local bus was driven like a go-cart, along with salesman offering anything from milk to sunglasses - this provided us with a colourful insight into local life.

On arriving at the tour company Galasam, we booked our Galapagos trip with a gold medallion wearing, greasy haired, overweight travel agent by the name of Mario. This and his wedding photo on display along with a matching cup disturbed Sam to the point where he couldn’t deal with him any longer and was convinced we were being ripped off!! Sadly the earliest trip was not until Saturday leaving us with three more days in Guayaquil.

The main high street is called 9th October. It is the London equivalent to Oxford Street, however there were a few differences. Firstly, most of the shops are electronic shops with massive widescreens TVs in the window or banks. Almost all the shops are guarded by security. The more expensive the stuff the more impressive the gun!! Imagine Dixons being guarded by a bloke wearing a bulletproof vest and holding a machine gun and you get the picture!!

We spent the next three days wandering up and down the riverfront called Malceron 2000, which was full of modern architecture and fast food joints. We noticed as a result, that most Ecuadorian women have a bit of a tummy.

The most impressive sight was from the church tower, which provided a panoramic view across the city.

Sam´s Comments: Guayaquil was a bit of a culture shock after Mancora. My bowels also felt the shock too and Imodium became a lifesaver!!

E-J´s Comments: The pace of life in Guayaquil is definitely a lot faster than that of anywhere we had been previously. I was amazed by all the fast food places and the excessive weight of everyone - for once I wasn’t feeling like the one who ate all the pies!